The local produce is peaking—tomatoes, peppers, zucchini, herbs—all those stars of the Mediterranean Diet. Until we get that October nip that sends me off to dreamland when I crack my window at night, I feel languid and lazy in the kitchen during the da—I’ve no plans to roast or braise a hunk of meat. I’ll save that fun for the eight months of the year when I want heat leaking from my oven.
This recipe has been in my repertoire for you-don’t-want-to-know how many years. I was lucky enough to marry a man who owned the complete Time-Life Foods of the World series, which, if Time- Life had a clue, they’d reissue immediately.
Serious cooks scout used bookstores to this day looking to score a copy of, say, Cooking of Vienna’s Empire. This gem of a recipe is lifted from Middle Eastern Cooking. (1969!)
Moussaka in all its Greek glory is a casserole of layered eggplant, ground lamb and béchamel sauce, baked until bubbly. This meatless Musakkka’a is from the region Time-Life calls the Arab States, and it’s a winner. It’s cheap, cheerful and friendly.
I’m going to give you the recipe straight from the (sob—out of print) book, but consider it a beginning, not a hard and fast exotic destination. If you have a couple of zucchini and a red pepper, feel free to sautee them and slip them in.
This dish plays well with others. It’s best served at warm room temperature and, paired with a grain like rice, pasta, couscous, or crusty bread, it’s a complete protein. It’s a terrific topping for bruschetta, a potluck fave (I know this from personal experience) tastes great in a warm split pita, and is a made-in –heaven marriage with eggs, any style.
Here are a couple of Maggie-to-you tips. For years I’d read that to prevent eggplant from weeping I had to salt it, weight it, pray a novena and wait a couple of hours. Rejoice, mes amis! Spread the eggplant on a paper towel lined plate and zap it in the microwave for about twenty-five seconds. As my
Second, buy a good rich green olive oil, but it doesn’t have to be Extra Virgin—its reputation can be slightly sullied and the dish will still taste wonderful. I like the dish baked in the oven, but if the kitchen is too hot you can braise it in a covered casserole on the stovetop.
My husband insists I include this joke. (Roll eyes!) A Persian sage was sitting in his garden and considered this enigma: “Why does a big fruit like an eggplant grow on such a small vine, and a cherry grows on a giant tree?” Then a cherry hit him on the head.
MEATLESS MUSAKKA’A
Ingredients
One can chickpeas
Olive oil
Vegetable oil
Two medium eggplants, about onepound each, unpeeled and cut into two-inch cubes.
Three medium onions cut into ¼-inch slices
1 ½ teaspoons salt
12 medium sized ripe tomatoes, skinned, peeled, seeded and finely chopped – or substitute four cups. chopped, drained, canned tomatoes
½ cup water
Preparation
Preheat the oven to 400.
Heat an inch of vegetable oil in a heavy large heavy skillet until it’s almost smoking hot.
Add the eggplant cubes and stirring often, cook until they’re lightly browned, about five minutes.
With a slotted spoon, transfer the cubes to a 9X14 baking dish.
Add the onions to the pan, reduce the heat, and cook until golden, about
Sprinkle them over the eggplant, and add the salt and pepper.
Scatter the chickpeas over the onions and cover them with the tomatoes.
Add the olive oil and water.
Bake in the lower third of the oven for 40 minutes, or until the vegetables are very tender.
Cool to room temperature.
